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Woman laying mortar for tiling a wall and scraping away excess.
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How to Tile Shower Walls

Simple, direct step-by-step shower tile installation instructions and pro tips that we have discovered over many varied projects.
Prep Time2 hours
Active Time3 days
Total Time3 days 2 hours
Yield: 1 wall
Author: Rachel
Cost: $500

Equipment

Materials

  • Tile
  • Ledger Board
  • T-spacers See note for other varieties.
  • Wedge Spacers
  • Bucket
  • Thinset Mortar Use the type that is recommended for your tile.
  • Grout
  • Tile Sponge
  • Caulk non-paintable

Instructions

Prepare the surface

  • Ensure that your surface is clean, dry, and properly waterproofed.
    A man painting a liquid waterproofing membrane onto concrete backerboard for a shower installation.
  • Add a ledger board. A ledger board is simply a very straight board you screw into the wall that the tile can rest on while drying. It is usually placed where the bottom row of tile would be and the next upward row of tile will sit. This keeps all tile perfectly level and better supported while drying.
    A bathroom remodel showing a ledger board in the correct location at the bottom of a wall.
  • Set up your tools including the wet saw and cover any areas you want to protect.
    Man cutting tile with a sliding tile saw.

Plan Your Layout

  • For printed or patterned tile, avoid installing identical patterns next to each other by opening full boxes and loosely laying out at least a few rows at a time and making sure there are no defects. Also check for any intricate cut patterns you may need. Decide your start point. (Our stacked tile wall was quite easy, so the photo is how we dry tested the floor layout.)
    Floor tile laid out to dry fit and plan layout for cuts and pattern.

Mix the Mortar.

  • Use the mortar manufacturer instructions for mixing ratios and setting time. Pour the appropriate amount of water or additive into a clean bucket. Start the drill with the mixing paddle attachment. Slowly add the dry mortar mix to the water while mixing continuously. Continue mixing until you achieve a smooth, lump-free consistency. Mix only enough that you can use before the setting time.
    Mortar being mixed in a bucket with a paddle.

Apply the Mortar to the Wall.

  • Spread a thin layer of mortar onto the wall using the notched trowel, covering an area slightly larger than the height of your tiles. Then, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create ridges in the mortar.
    Woman laying mortar for tiling a wall and scraping away excess.

Add Your First Row of Tile

  • Measure and mark tiles for cutting using a tile marker or pencil. Use a tile cutter or wet saw to make precise cuts. Dry-fit the cut tiles to ensure they fit properly before applying mortar.
    Man using a wet saw to cut tile.
  • If desired, back butter the tiles (scrape a thin, flat layer of mortar on the back of the tile with a trowel at about 30 degrees).
    Woman back buttering large tile to hang on a shower wall.
  • Press the tiles firmly into the mortar, using slight twisting motions to ensure good adhesion. Check the edges are level with adjacent tile. Insert tile spacers between each tile to maintain consistent spacing. Check regularly with a level to ensure the tiles are straight and level. Wipe away any excess mortar from the tile grout lines and surface before it dries.
    Man laying a tile spacer in between two large tiles.
  • Continue with the rest of the rows making sure to scrape off old grout spillover prior to placing fresh grout for next row.
    The process of tiling large tiles on a shower wall after waterproofing.
  • For the last row, unscrew and remove the ledger board. Tile the bottom row into place, making sure to leave spacers above the shower pan for caulk line.
    Shower pan being tiled with spacers inserted.

Dry Time and Grouting

  • Let the mortar dry according to manufacturer instructions before grouting, which typically takes 24-48 hours. The process for mixing grout is the same as mortar, mix enough grout to use within the setting time, or about 20 minutes.
    A full wall of large format tile with spacers before grouting.
  • Use a grout float to push the grout mixture into the lines and then wipe away excess grout. Make sure to push and wipe in multiple directions to completely fill the gaps.
    Pushing grout into grout lines of a ceramic tile floor with a rubber float.
  • After about 10-15 minutes, use a damp grout sponge to clean excess grout and make the lines smooth. Cleaning as much grout as possible will make haze removal easier later.
    Wiping excess grout off of tile with tile sponge.

Haze Removal

  • Wait at least 24-48 hours and wipe several times with a clean, damp sponge to remove any haze. The longer you wait, the harder it is to remove. Use a water bucket to rinse the sponge constantly and change out the water frequently. It may take a few cleanings to remove all of the haze. More will show up as it dries.
    A closeup of a hand wiping tile for cleaning.

Finishing Touches

  • Sealing grout. I do recommend sealing all new grout for longevity and maintenance. Even those with pre-treatments in them will last better with an outer sealant.
    A frameless shower in a fully tiled bathroom.
  • Caulk showers, tub surrounds, backsplashes and other areas as needed. I always caulk after the sealant is fully dried.
    A caulk smoother tool being used to smooth out caulk on a bathtub.

Notes

For spacers, there are a variety you can use, but they need to be sized to your desired grout line. The most common sizes are 1/16 and ⅛. My preference is to use these T-spacers in between tiles on the wall, these leveling spacers on floors, and these wedge spacers for areas that can vary (like a tile not sitting straight or the edge of the bathtub on the bottom row).
I don't recommend hidden tile spacers in joints at all. They provide a weak point for grout to crack.
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