How To Paint Oak Kitchen Cabinets

There's no question that painting kitchen cabinets is a big project. While it’s tempting to slap a fresh coat of paint on and call it a day, if you want your kitchen makeover project to have a smooth finish that lasts, it’s important to take the time and follow the right steps.

I've done countless furniture painting tutorials and troubleshot all kinds of paint projects for clients. This is THE guide and process for achieving a professional finish that withstands the test of time.

These particular cabinets are solid wood fronts and doors with sides that are laminate covering fiberboard (aka very common style kitchen cabinets). Read more about working laminate vs veneer wood furniture here. Like most of my kitchen cabinet makeovers, we wanted to turn these to white cabinets to fit a particular aesthetic.

Oak has a very distinctive grain that can be tricky to work with. If you’re hoping for achieve a sleek smooth finish, check out my post on removing wood grain with a grain filler.

This is how we stored drawer fronts while they were drying, because we did not remove the faceplates in this project. However, in projects for doors or when we remove the faceplates, we stored them like this:

These particular doors are raised off the ground with scrap wood, but I have used solo cups as a cheap alternative that won’t damage the paint.

1. How to Prep Kitchen Cabinets for Painting

1. Remove all the hardware, along with the cabinet doors, including hinges.
2. Thoroughly clean all surfaces, removing any grime and dirt, using a degreaser or TSP cleaner. Remove any residue before proceeding.
3. If needed, repair deep scratches with wood filler. If you are changing out the hardware to a different size, fill any holes from the old hardware.
4. Vacuum and wipe sanding dust off with a damp microfiber cloth or other lint free cloth before painting. I do not like tack cloths as they can leave a residue.
5. Use tarp and painter’s tape to mask off any areas you don’t want painted. This will give you clean edges and makes the end result much more professional looking.

Pro Tip!: Number the doors when you remove them so that you know where each one goes when you’re putting the kitchen back together. In the door below, I cover the painter’s tape number with another small piece of painter’s tape while painting to keep the number from being obscured.

2. To Sand or Not to Sand?

There are two ways of bonding paint to kitchen cabinets: sanding or adding a bonding agent.

Sanding provides the best bond, particularly when painting old oak kitchen cabinets where the topcoat has degraded. I highly recommend the sanding method for high-traffic surfaces such as around cabinet knobs, drawer fronts, and door edges.

It’s not necessary to remove every trace of varnish. My general rule of thumb is to sand the surface until I’ve removed the gloss. Because oak has such deep grain, there will be some shine from the recessed grain.

What about surfaces that can’t be sanded?

• Another method is to use a bonding agent like this or this one for matte paint. It’s not available at many hardware stores, but you can purchase it online. I use these for delicate surfaces that cannot be sanded like paper covered laminate.
• You can also use a deglosser, which puts a coating on the cabinets that paint can bond to. My results, using deglosser in the past, have been mixed.
  • Spray it on.
  • Test your surface after 15-20 minutes.
  • It should look etched or cracked, but NOT gummy or glossy. If it does, the surface may need to be scraped and cleaned again or sanded.

3. Do I need to prime?

The short answer is yes. Priming is key step towards achieving a professional grade finish. Primer acts like a bonding agent, sort of like glue, and a sealer so wood doesn’t absorb paint, causing an uneven finish. It helps to conceal some stains, and it creates a smooth, clean foundation for the paint application.

On occasion, it can be safe to skip priming. There are brands I’ve used that are fine to skip priming in many cases: Chalk Paint, Fusion Mineral and Benjamin Moore Advance. However, certain projects, such as the ones listed below, ALWAYS call for priming no matter what type of paint you’re using:

• Transitioning dark cabinets to a lighter shade or white.
• Painting raw wood.
• Knotty pine cabinets or other knotty grade wood. I recommend a shellac-based primer for this situation. It must say shellac on it.
• Cabinets stained with deeply embedded oil or grease, markers, or dyes. If the topcoat seal is broken or well worn, you should prime.

For best results I recommend two coats of primer if using a paint sprayer or one coat with a paint brush.

4. How to Achieve a Professional Grade Finish

Now that you’ve done all the proper prep, choosing the right paint is pivotal. We used Benjamin Moore on many sets of cabinets, and I have also used Fusion Mineral to paint our kitchen island and love the results. Read more about the most durable paint options here.

Beyond applying a smooth and durable paint, using a paint sprayer will deliver the most seamless finish. It saves so much time, energy, and there are many affordable and user-friendly options. Read our guide to painting kitchen cabinets with a sprayer that includes how to setup, troubleshoot and achieve the best finish possible.

Related Guide: Choosing the best paint sprayer

Pro Painting Tips

While I love my sprayers, I realize that it may not be available to everyone or suitable for every project. So here are more painting tips if tackling this with a roller and paint brush combination.

• High-density foam rollers or microfiber rollers will help achieve a smoother finish and less work than only using a paintbrush. Use the paintbrush in corners first, then go immediately over the larger, flat areas with the roller while the paint is still wet.
• Apply thin coats of paint but load up enough paint on your paint brush or roller that you aren’t stretching the paint. Stretching will leave more marks and prevent any self-leveling properties of the paint.
• Paint in the direction of the grain of the wood.
• Every paint has a different requirement for paint to set between coats. Read the instructions on the can before starting and make a plan for the timing of coats.
• You don’t need to sand between coats for the paint to bond well. However, a light sanding before the final coat may give a smoother finish.
• Generally, there is no need to paint the insides of cabinets except maybe for glass fronted cabinets or damage restoration.
• Lastly, this is a big job. Don’t push yourself too hard as mistakes and sloppiness will increase and you may not be satisfied with the results long term.

With deeply grained cabinets, you’ll still see some of the woodgrain after painting. To achieve a completely smooth finish as pictured below, I recommend filling woodgrain before painting.

5. Adding a Protective Clear Coat

I always recommend a topcoat to clients. A clear coat provides an even finish with added durability and friction resistance for lasting beauty. It’s a great way to complete and protect your cabinet project. If you’re on the fence, read my guide to The Best Protective Topcoats for Furniture and Cabinets for more in-depth information.

The clear coat I use most often for kitchen cabinets is Benwood Stays Clear Acrylic Polyurethane. First, it comes in 3 different sheens – flat, low-luster, and high gloss. Most clients prefer the low-luster finish. Second, it’s made for painted floors, so I know it is durable. And third, I have never had this topcoat yellow or react with the paints I use.

*Note – Stays Clear is meant to be applied with a sprayer, in my experience. If you use a brush, choose a high-quality finishing brush such as a Purdy or Corona China Bristle or a microfiber roller. Do not use a foam roller!

6. Dry Time vs Cure Time

After installing the cabinet doors and drawer fronts, I left them slightly ajar to allow the paint and clear coat to cure. While these cabinets took about 3 weeks to cure, it can take up to 60 days in high humidity. 

What is paint curing? Paint may feel dry to the touch but not be fully hardened and maximum durability. If you have removed something, like a glass vase, from a table and heard a sticking noise, the paint is soft and there's a risk of the paint transferring or pulling off (yikes!). With these cabinet paints, that should not happen if you have allowed the paint to fully cure and left the doors open for airflow. It's imperative to allow enough curing time for a smooth finish that will stand the test of time.