Don’t get left in the dark with this comprehensive guide on the best kitchen cabinet paint! Packed with years of hands-on DIY expertise, learn how to easily create a stunning, long-lasting finish.
Breathe new life into your kitchen with a fresh coat of paint! Painting your cabinets is an inspired, cost-effective way to modernize the heart of your home without spending a fortune. But where should you begin?
Yes, it's a big project, but like any great endeavor, success starts with the right materials. And at the core of it all? A reliable, high-quality paint that can endure the daily hustle and bustle of a busy kitchen. If you’re feeling a bit apprehensive, don’t worry, you’ve come to the right source!
Choosing the Right Cabinet Paint for You
Some professional painters may have access to industrial-grade paints, but this article focuses on widely available, DIYer options that don’t require specialized equipment. Based on personal experience and input from professionals, the key factors I consider for cabinet projects are:
- Durability: Cabinets must resist scuffs and chipping.
- Stain Resistance: Essential for kitchen environments.
- Sheen Options: Some brands have limited choices.
- Application Method: Suitable for brush/roller or spray painting.
- Non-Toxicity: Low VOCs and minimal fumes for in-home painting.
- Finish Quality: Self-leveling but resistant to sagging and drips.
- Budget: Must align with the client’s financial means.
Additional considerations include color choice, moisture resistance, fading, and ease of application.
*Pro Tip: Latex paint or standard wall paint is not well-suited for cabinet projects. Although modern paint doesn’t include any natural latex, it isn’t designed to adhere to wood or high-traffic areas, so it lacks the durability. Choose one of the products from this list for optimum results.
Resources for Prepping and Painting Cabinets
I won’t go too much into prepping and painting, but there are no shortcuts to success here. However, I love painting projects and have written about them for over 10 years!
We have several articles that provide step-by-step tutorials to help make your cabinet renovation dreams reality. Save time, elbow grease, and common, costly mistakes. Some of my articles from years of painting furniture and cabinets include:
- Removing wood grain (also great for scratches)
- How To Paint Oak Cabinets – this is THE GUIDE to painting cabinets and includes our step-by-step prepping process.
- Spray Painting Kitchen Cabinets – discover the time-saving secrets to achieving professional-grade results by painting kitchen cabinets with a sprayer.
- Read about Painting Tricky Surfaces – Laminate vs Veneer (a common type of cabinet).
- How to Paint a Bathroom Vanity
- What You Need to Know to Paint Furniture White – all of these tips apply to cabinets too.
- What to Know Before Painting Kitchen Cabinets Black
Best Paints for Kitchen Cabinets
These paints aren’t listed in a particular order, as it will depend entirely on your specific project, skill level, and sheen desired. All of these paints could be recommended if they met your design needs.
1. INSL-X Cabinet Coat (Urethane Acrylic Paint)
I love this stuff. In my area, INSL-X is less expensive than most of the other alternatives and is a highly durable product.
Pros:
- Self-leveling, smooth finish. I’d say it’s comparable to Advance but dries faster.
- Top Durability. As always, I wouldn’t use it without a protective topcoat on kitchen cabinets.
- Designed to stick to previously painted or unprimed cabinets, without requiring extensive prep work.
- Cures faster than BM Advance, but slower than PPGs Break-Through!
- Best Value. Depending on the store, it can be slightly cheaper than the Advance or about the same with a contractor’s discount.
Cons:
- Sheen. Only available in satin and semi-gloss. The satin is about as shiny as BM Advance.
- Although it’s considered Low VOC, it isn’t as low as Fusion Mineral Paint’s natural, non-toxic formula for those who prioritize eco-conscious products.
- A little harder to work with. I find it to be thicker than Advance so I need to thin it more for a sprayer.
When would I use it?: When I want the best protection at a budget friendly price. It’s a great choice for homes with kids because you get maximum durability minus the long cure time.
2. Fusion Mineral (Eco-friendly Acrylic emulsion)
Fusion Mineral is the paint I use and recommend most. The matte finish is relatively flat although not as flat as chalk paint. You can learn more about Fusion Mineral here, but here’s a list of the advantages and disadvantages:
Pros:
- Versatility. Brushes and sprays well. For large flat areas, use a sprayer or a microfiber roller to lessen brush strokes.
- Hue Integrity. Wax and water-based polyurethanes work great without altering the color as much as they do with other paints.
- Durability. I’ve never had a problem cleaning, even when I didn’t have a topcoat.
- Never yellowed or faded. Great coverage too.
- Cleans very well. I have cleaned dried on toothpaste with no problems, even without a topcoat.
Cons:
- Color Selection. This is a boutique product so the color selections are much more limited to what you can get mixed in stores. However, they have many trendy colors and several different neutrals from white to dark.
- Only in Matte Sheen. This is definitely my most go-to favorite for Matte paint, but it’s only available in a matte sheen.
- Mix the can. I’ve had a few colors come out uneven before.
When would I use it? When the client really wants a sheen that’s less shiny than satin and they like the color choices. Because it’s matte, it won’t be as smooth or quite as easy to wipe and clean.
This kitchen island was painted in Fusion Mineral Paint with several thin sprayed coats of Benjamin Moore Stays Clear. We eat here every day, and the finish has held up beautifully, although the quarter round at the bottom needs some touching up from the bar stools.
3. Benjamin Moore’s Advance Paint (Water Reducible Alkyd paint)
This is my favorite overall paint in a satin sheen and semi-gloss finish; satin is the most requested. Here are some of the biggest pros and cons:
Pros:
- Maximum durability, even without a topcoat. I still highly recommend a water-based topcoat with alkyd enamel paint.
- Best brush-stroke-free smooth finish when I cannot use a sprayer. Works best with a short nap microfiber roller, not a foam roller.
- The widest range of shades and colors available.
- I’ve never had it noticeably yellow or fade.
- The people at my store really know their products and give knowledgeable advice.
Cons:
- Availability. It’s only available in BM stores.
- Very Long Cure Times. While it dries and cures extremely hard, it can take up to 60 days to fully cure which means you can’t close your cabinet doors, or they may stick.
- Dark colors like black can be finicky. Some stores sell pre-made black and that’s much better. (This has improved over the years as they have more base colors but I don’t have much experience with the new bases on furniture specifically.)
- Sheen. I have only used the high gloss in our office, once, and I wasn’t impressed. It never seemed to fully cure. I’ve not used the matte version, nor did the store rep offer it as a recommendation.
- Can’t thin with water. There are very specific instructions on the paint can for how to thin it for spraying.
When would I choose this? Benjamin Moore’s advance paint is an old favorite for me. It works very well sprayed or brushed, and I use it often for it’s smooth application and even satin finish. The breadth of color options is great and versatility can’t be beat.
These cabinets were painted in Benjamin Moore Advance and the durable finish has held up beautifully with a super durable finish.
4. Rust-oleum Cabinet Transformations
I admit that I’ve only used this once on a set of bathroom laminate cabinets, but I got a good result without the glaze. I generally only use this system for something that can’t be sanded, although there are alternatives from other companies such as Fusion and Sherwin Williams.
Pros:
- All-In-One Kit. Everything you need to prep and finish the cabinets is included: deglosser, bond coat and paint, decorative glaze (optional), and topcoat.
- Good durability. It comes with a sealing coat that, like most Rust-oleum products, works well and is specifically designed for their paint.
- No sanding required. While I prefer to sand, there are some surfaces that can’t be sanded like laminate cabinets.
- You can buy the paint as a separate product. I simply haven’t used it that way before.
Cons:
- Very limited colors. It’s pre-mixed and there’s no easy way to discern how long it’s been on the store shelf or if its separated.
- Uses deglosser. I’ve never been a fan of this product.
- The satin has more shine.
- Only does about 100 sq feet or about one 10×10 wall of cabinets. You may need 2 kits; in which case it could be more cost effective to buy separate products.
When would I use it? I might select this if I was a beginner who wanted an all-in-one product for one project that performed well and I liked the color options.
5. PPG Break-through! (Waterborne Acrylic Enamel)
Truthfully, I don’t have personal experience with this product. It’s a hybrid paint that has been highly recommended to me by a few professional groups. I have plans to use it on some outdoor spaces.
Pros:
- Maximum durability. This is probably the hardest paint after curing.
- Early block resistance. This is a paint's ability to resist sticking to itself or other surfaces when two painted surfaces come into contact. This means you can close those cabinet doors earlier.
- Very fast recoat time and dry time. 15-30 minutes to dry for brush coat is really fast.
- Excellent adhesion for interior and exterior. Meant for challenging surfaces including porous surfaces like concrete.
- More heat resistant than others. No paint is really great at this, but this one is less likely to discolor.
- Satin, semi-gloss, and high gloss available.
Cons:
- Availability. I have seen that Break-through! is available now in some Home Depot stores, but I cannot be sure that these are the exact same formulations and not just branding slapped on two different quality products.
- Very fast drying. You have to be pretty technically skilled and quick because it sets very fast. It’s not forgiving to fix mistakes except sanding between coats.
- More expensive than other brands. The second most expensive option by volume.
- Color options. Most of their color choices are more saturated than I normally use.
When would I use it? For a project where quick turn around and dry times are high priority. I’m experienced so it doesn’t scare me, but because of the fast-dry time, I’d use a paint sprayer.
Cabinet Paints that Are NOT My Favorites and Why
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel: While it's a quality paint with good durability and smoothness, it didn't outperform Benjamin Moore Advance for me and was nearly 40% more expensive. I’d only consider it if BM wasn't available.
- Anything Paint + Primer: I never recommend skipping a separate primer for cabinets. Paint+ Primer products aren't cost-effective and compromise the finish quality.
- Behr Trim and Cabinet Paint: Affordable and accessible, but in my experience it doesn't hold up to oils and stains common in kitchens.
- Oil-Based Paints: Although effective, modern waterborne alkyds and acrylics offer comparable performance without the challenges of cleanup or product compatibility.
- Chalk Paint: Not suited for cabinets. It lacks durability, absorbs stains, and doesn't withstand heavy use.
Adding a Protective Clear Coat
I always recommend a clear coat for even finish and added durability. It’s like an insurance policy for this labor of love. If you're still unsure, read my guide to The Best Protective Topcoats for Furniture and Cabinets for more in-depth information.
The clear coat I recommend most often for kitchen cabinet makeovers is Benwood Stays Clear Acrylic Polyurethane. It’s available in 3 different sheens - flat, low-luster, and high gloss. And because it’s designed for painted floors, I know it is durable. It’s a great cherry on top for your cabinet project.
More Cabinet Painting and Installation Projects
- 20 Best Sage Green Paint Colors
- How to Install Crown Molding on a Cabinet
- How To Paint without Brush Marks
- How to Install Laundry Room Cabinets
- The Best Blue and Navy Kitchen Cabinet Paint Colors
FAQs
Assess the condition of the existing cabinets first and foremost. If your cabinets are warped, chipped, or otherwise damaged then professional grade results will be difficult to achieve with a few coats of paint.
Cabinets made of stainless steel, vinyl, and laminate aren’t easy to paint over. Paints are known not to bond with these particular surfaces, which may result in chipping or peeling paint.
Not necessarily, if it’s fresh coats. The only reason to ever sand between freshly applied paint is to remove imperfections or if it isn’t smooth to your liking. I also don’t sand the final coat before applying a topcoat.
A water or solvent-based polyurethane offers the best protection to painted cabinets. I’ve used several brands and explain more in detail in the best furniture topcoats here.
Many paints today do not require priming so check the product. However, you may still need to use a sealing primer if painting raw wood, white or light paint colors, stains, or if you have tannins (knotty pine, Brazilian cherry) in the wood. Special primers may also be needed.
Yes, but there really isn’t reason to. First, oil is harder to work with, harder to clean, and rather uncommon to find these days. With the advancements made in paint over the last decade, oil-based paints aren’t considered more durable, so there’s no reason to seek them out.
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